If you can catch a view of Monument Valley with no tourists - from Hwy 163 or from the boondocking area early in the morning or at the end of the day- it's not hard to visualize a scene from a John Wayne movie or other westerns (known as "oaters," in case you didn't know!). Across the red plain ride 20 or 30 Indians. You hear war cries and thundering hooves and see the stagecoach frantically trying to outrun them- the driver's whip lashing the horses to greater speeds, passengers shooting towards the fast appr
oaching war party. From behind a huge spire comes the calvary - heralded by a bugle - racing towards the stage and war party. Guns and arrows fly. The Indians retreat - this time.
Whew! For George and me, the old westerns come to mind. John, our Navajo tour guide, who took us around the main drive and the restricted area on a 2 1/2 hr tour, never mentioned one western even though finding out where the movies were made is a staple of the tours. Instead he told us about more modern films and several commercials: Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, Eiger Sanction, Chevy Chase's National Lampoon Vacation, Windwalker, Trial of Billy Jack, Back to the Future 3, and several others I can't remember and never saw. The generation gap!
A tour is worth the money if you've never been. The guides do share history and information you wouldn't otherwise know. Going into the restricted area takes you to see several arches with descriptive names like Sun's Eye, Ear of the Wind (pictured to left), Mocassin, Big Hogan (also pictured below with John and me standing at the bottom). We visited a 96 year old Navajo woman in her hogan. For $1 you co
uld enter, see her weaving and take a photo. She spoke no English but had a wonderful smile when George gave her a little extra.
John pointed out the names of features - some take some imagination, some were easily seen. He knew where every commercial was filmed, we think: Marlborough cigarettes, Jeep and Chevrolet (on top of a butte), a dog food commercial, and several foreign ones, to name a few.
I especially enjoyed going in the restriced area because it was much quieter - it was only $5 more than a tour of the main loop. A few vehicles passed but we had the various stops at arches and the hogan to ourselves. It was quiet and peaceful. A far cry from vehicles racing from feature to feature an
d getting out for photo ops and to look over native American jewelry.In the restricted area, it much easier to visual an "oater" and John Wayne coming to the rescue. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak
Photos by George Bruzenak
Our boondocking spot at the tribal park.